THE BREAKFAST MEAL evolved from the munching of tidbits left from the previous evening's meal to the elaborate breakfasts of the Victorian era. These elegant meals offered an array of delightful foods, presented in silver chafing dishes and crystal bowls. Sir William Cornelius Van Horne (pictured at left), first president of the Canadian Pacific Railway, introduced lavish breakfasts to North American railway travel in 1886. Buffet repasts like the CPR breakfast, introduced at the same time in the company's hotels, were well received. Today, such buffets are enjoyed in hotel restaurants worldwide. For home entertaining, you can adapt some of the highlights of the Sunday brunches Van Horne introduced 120 years ago. The basic elements are: eggs, smoked meats and fish, seasonal fruits, cheese, breads, fried tomatoes or potatoes, coffee and tea. Van Horne's chefs would have been unstinting with rich sauces, but you can hold the calories by injecting flavour with seasonings, like the smoked Hungarian paprika that gives the eggs a nice blush. A contemporary update to the menu is a compote of fresh fruits, marinated in red wine. For an authentic CPR theme, begin with a glass of dry sherry or a Bull Shot. Canadian cheddar and Oka cheeses, smoked Winnipeg Goldeye, muffins and maple syrup complete the buffet that would do Van Horne proud. Oranges in wine PREP TIME: 30 minutes       Total time: 8.5 hours  serves 6 Make this light, spicy fruit compote the night before your brunch. Prepared fruit: 18 seedless oranges, peeled and thinly sliced [You may prefer a mixture of sliced oranges and grapefruit segments, along with wedges of poached pears, apricots and peaches. In all, you need 6 cups (1.5 L) fruit.] Wine marinade: 3 cups water          750 mL 1 cup red wine          250 mL 2 cinnamon sticks 2-inch length vanilla bean 5 cm (or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 5 mL) 12 cloves 1 lemon, unpeeled and thinly sliced 3 cups sugar          750 mL Combine the marinade ingredients in a medium-sized saucepan and simmer for 15 minutes over low heat. Cool the mixture, and pour through a strainer to remove the whole spices and lemon slices. Add the prepared fruit to the liquid and refrigerate overnight before serving. Poached eggs Variable quantity Preparation time: 1 hour 15 minutes Poaching eggs for a crowd is all about technique. With this method, you prepare three eggs to a bowl, and the vinegar does part of the cooking. The directions below yield three poached eggs. Use four bowls to prepare a dozen eggs. To marinate the eggs: 1 cup cold water          250 mL 1/4 cup vinegar           60 mL 3 whole eggs To cook the eggs: 3-6 marinated eggs 8 cups water          2 L 1/3 cup vinegar           75 mL fresh or steamed greens smoked Hungarian paprika chopped parsley In a large bowl, combine the water and vinegar. Break three eggs into the liquid, and allow them to marinate for 1 hour. The acid cooks the egg protein, creating a shape that will be retained during simmering. To cook, bring the water and vinegar to a simmer in a large soup pot or other saucepan over medium heat. Using a slotted spoon or ladle, gently transfer the marinated eggs into the simmering liquid. Poach for 5 minutes. Transfer to a chafing dish lined with fresh or steamed greens. Season with smoked Hungarian paprika and parsley to taste. Kitchen tip: Poached eggs may be prepared the night before, then plunged into ice water to halt the cooking. Refrigerate in a cold water bath. Before serving, rewarm the eggs with a quick dip in a pot of freshly boiled water. Bull Shot PREP TIME: 2 minutes Total time: 2 minutes serves 1 1/2 cup beef broth           125 mL 1 dash Tabasco sauce 1 dash Worcestershire sauce A few drops of lime juice 1 1/2 fluid ounces vodka or gin           45 mL ice cucumber, sliced Shake together with ice the beef broth, Tabasco and Worcestershire sauces, lime juice, and vodka or gin. Pour into an old-fashioned glass partly filled with ice. Garnish with a slice of cucumber.