A BLANK CANVAS is both exciting and intimidating. That's exactly what acreage owners see when they clear land to bring a sense of order to their properties. There are many considerations in creating a soothing green space, and the trick, the experts say, is to think small when planning big. "If you have an acreage, you have the advantage of being able to divide it up into smaller areas," says Liz Primeau, author of Front Yard Gardens: Growing More Than Grass. "Designate different functions for each area: you could have one seating area, one area where you grow vegetables, and another area where you play croquet and the kids can play." She recommends layering the property, from most structured around the house to least formal at the periphery, then deciding how much or how little time you want to spend developing each area. Greg Norman, owner of Norman's Garden Gallery in Midland, Ontario, concurs. "You're actually creating zones on your property, depending on how much maintenance you want to invest into each zone." There's one big choice to make in developing acreage lawns: sod or seed? Sod Sod is instant grass, ready to be set in place anytime during the growing season. Most sod in Canada is a blend of Kentucky bluegrass and fescue. In Ontario, it's mainly Kentucky bluegrass, which is actually better suited to the British Columbia climate. "It's the rich, soft-under-the-feet grass everybody dreams of having, but it's very nutrient and water demanding, and people cut it too short, which translates into higher maintenance and more time and money spent on the lawn," says Norman. It is the most expensive option, at about 10 cents per square foot, compared to one or two cents per square foot for grass seed. Seed Seeds are available in blends of Kentucky bluegrass, rye grass and fescues, and are sold in ratios according to the local climate, the type of terrain, and the amount of maintenance the landowner is willing to provide. For existing lawns containing more weeds than grass, seed with 100 percent rye grass, and cover with about two inches of topsoil, Norman says. The topping prevents the seed being blown or washed away, or eaten by birds. Fast-rooting rye grass will soon overwhelm the weeds, but it's not very soft underfoot. Once the rye grass is established, one can overseed with softer Kentucky bluegrass and fescues. It's important to read labels, Norman says. "If one 10-kilogram bag says it covers 5,000 square feet, and another less-expensive one says it does 60,000 square feet, the second bag contains a lot of filler, like cocoa shells and straw. It's not a bargain." If you're buying in bulk and no labeling is present, grab a handful of seeds and blow lightly on them. Grass seed contains moisture, which has weight. If nothing blows away, it indicates you're buying pure grass seed. The best time for seeding is when your area is experiencing cool nights and warm days. This is late summer or early autumn for most areas in Canada. In spring, new seedlings compete with germinating weeds, and you can't kill weeds and grow grass simultaneously. Plus, fall-planted grass has two seasons to establish before summer heat and drought. Preparing the site "The reality is that seeding an acreage is a lot of labour," says Norman, "but even if you're going to lay sod, I still recommend putting down a layer of rye and fescue grass seed first as extra insurance." On freshly cleared land, spread the seed over two to three inches of soil. Then rake it in, to a depth of at least one inch. On an existing lawn, you'll need to remove the thatch (dead grass roots) to enable the seed to make contact with the soil. For sandy soils, Norman advises tilling in vermiculite rather than peat moss to help retain moisture. Peat moss will decay and raise acidity levels, but vermiculite will not affect the soil's pH. On existing lawns, apply the seed at the end of the day; morning dew will cause it to stick to foliage rather than falling through to the soil. Watering, cutting and fertilizing Proper watering and proper cutting are essential. Without them, even the best fertilizer can't save your lawn. A newly sodded or seeded lawn must be soaked daily for 15 minutes in each area, to a depth of four inches (about one inch of water) for one to two weeks. For a large lawn, underground systems or above-ground drippers work more efficiently than sprinklers, which are affected by evaporation and wind. Water an established lawn deeply once a week in summer, and cut it no lower than three inches tall, using a sharp blade. Apply a slow-release fertilizer once during the growing season. The three numbers indicate the product's percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Look for a high middle number (as in 5-10-5) since phosphorus is the root grower. Deep roots mean less maintenance. High nitrogen levels may produce dramatic results, but can't sustain growth as root food can. After the first two cuttings of the season, leave lawn clippings to provide natural nitrogen. Organic lawns It can cost more, initially, to buy eco-friendly products, but prices decline steadily each year as demand increases. Quebec and more than 70 municipalities across Canada have banned cosmetic pesticide use. Acreage owners may want to consider that trend by gradually incorporating organic methods, including overseeding each fall to choke out weeds instead of using herbicides in the spring. Another option is Eco-Lawn, a low-maintenance proprietary blend of seven fescue grasses developed by Wildflower Farm in Coldwater, Ontario. Once established, this product does not require water or mowing. It costs about $30 for five pounds, which will seed 1,000 square feet. (You'll need 220 pounds per acre.) Miriam Goldberger of Wildflower Farm says the pure fescue blend "performs better in far more diverse and challenging situations than other low-maintenance blends that are primarily fescue but also include more traditional grasses. Fescues grow very slowly, so you're not watering, fertilizing or mowing it. It prevents soil erosion and it's soft and nice to walk on." One can cut Eco-Lawn for a more traditional lawn look, but that's needed only a few of times a year, Goldberger says. Sales of this eco-friendly grass are growing steadily, and Wildflower Farm is shipping it across North America. Alternatives to grass Liz Primeau notes that many grasses are not indigenous to a particular area. If you plant them, "You have to give them a lot more care, and that's a big disadvantage of any lawn. Nature prefers biodiversity. You wouldn't plant only peonies in your garden, yet people have large swaths of only grass." She suggests using native plants and grasses, perhaps replacing part of an existing lawn or difficult-to-mow areas with wide-spreading ground covers, such as crown vetch or snow-on-the-mountain. Visit the experts at garden centres for region-specific lawn advice and for restrictions concerning invasive plants. For additional lawn care information, check: www.healthylawns.net and www.wildflowerfarm.com.